Introduction to Sunscreen Filters: New Generation Sunscreen Filters

The effectiveness of a sunscreen depends upon its UV filters and inactive ingredients. New generation sunscreen filters have emerged over the years and they're an improvement, at least in some ways, over older filters. Performance apart, safety is an important consideration for daily sunscreen wearers. The reality is, there is insufficient data on the safety of UV filters, which can make their usage a bit tricky in the absence of basic information on sunscreen filters. This post provides information and tips that can help you make wise choices.

UV Filters in Sunscreen

UV filters are the key ingredients in sunscreens that provide protection against UV radiation. All sunscreens contain UV filters and their role is to reduce the amount of UV radiation that lands on your skin.

Sunscreen filters can be inorganic particulates (titanium oxide and zinc oxide) or organic chemicals (avobenzone, oxybenzone, octocrylene and others). The Food and Drug Administration (FDA) has classified only titanium oxide and zinc oxide as safe and effective. These mineral sunscreens are safe as a cream or lotion, but in powder or spray form, inhalable, and therefore potentially unsafe.

The safety of chemical sunscreen filters is in the gray area as they are absorbed by the skin. While the FDA approves the use of organic chemicals common in sunscreen, citing insufficient data, national health agencies and independent studies have reported the adverse effects of using sunscreens containing organic UV filters. Here's a partial list of chemical sunscreen filters that have come under the scanner:

• Oxybenzone
• Avobenzone
• Octisalate
• Homosalate
• Octocrylene
• Octinoxate
• Meradimate
• Ensulizole
• Padimate o

Many of these are old generation sunscreen filters, and not all are photostable, which means they're resistant to change under the influence of sunlight and their effectiveness may not remain consistent after extended periods in the sun. The new generation of sunscreen filters range from 'photostable' to 'highly photostable'. These are the new gen organic UV filters approved in the UK, EU, Canada, Australia, and ASEAN countries but not in the U.S.:

• bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine (Tinosorb S, Bemotrizinol)
• diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate (DHHB, Uvinul A Plus)
• tris-biphenyl triazine (Tinosorb A2B)
• methylene bis-benzotriazolyl tetramethylbutylphenol (Tinosorb M, Bisoctrizole)
• ethylhexyl triazone (Uvinul T 150, Octyltriazone)

We understand that these terms may take a while to settle in and become easier to remember with time and a habit of checking sunscreen labels (if you don't do so already).

Uses of UV Filters

UV filters protect against the negative consequences of UVA and UVB exposure, including photoaging, sunburn, and skin cancer. Organic UV filters in chemical sunscreens absorb UV radiation and then dissipate the energy. Mineral sunscreens reflect UV radiation away from the skin.

An individual UV filter, on its own, does not provide protection against the entire UV wavelength range [1]. Each UV filter offers the most protection within a certain UV wavelength range, based on which it is classified as a UVA (further divided into UVA1 and UVA2) and/or UVB filter. A mixture of UV filters provides broad-spectrum coverage.

Only inorganic UV filters can provide broad-spectrum coverage on their own, and of them, only zinc oxide provides both UVA1 and UVA2 coverage. Titanium oxide and zinc oxide together are more effective than titanium oxide as the only UV filter in the sunscreen. Most inorganic UV filters tackle only UVB radiation.

Mineral sunscreens are generally considered safer than chemical sunscreens. However, as they are less photostable, manufacturers use mineral forms coated with inert chemicals to reduce photoactivity.

Tips on choosing a sunscreen correctly:

• There is no such thing as a 'natural' sunscreen. All sunscreen contains some amount of chemicals. While mineral-based filters like titanium oxide or zinc oxide are inorganic, they are micronized, nanosized, and highly refined.
• If you're pregnant or nursing, avoid soluble filters or any large particle filter that can enter your blood.
• A higher SPF is better. The concentration or ingredient load determines the level of protection, so check for this as well. For reference, 1% of micronized zinc oxide gives a SPF of about 1.5 while 5% each of micronized zinc oxide plus titanium oxide gives a SPF of about 12-19. 1% of oxybenzone gives a SPF of about 1.5.
• A sunscreen with only titanium oxide as the active ingredient will prevent sunburn and other UVB damage to some degree but won't be so effective in preventing photoaging.

Now let's look at how to identify which filters are in your sunscreen.

How to identify which filters are in my sunscreen?

Read the ingredient list on sunscreen labels to identify the UV filters, based on which you can validate whether the product provides UVA, UVB, or UVA+UVB coverage. Also check for ingredients like fragrances (benzyl alcohol and cinnamates) and preservatives (parabens, methylisothiazolinone) that may cause skin irritation in people with sensitive skin. It's also worth Googling new generation sunscreen filters you're not familiar with and get a clear idea of their pros and cons.

In the event that you experience a reaction to sunscreen, stop using the product immediately, rinse the affected area with lukewarm water, and apply a gentle moisturizer. If symptoms persist, consult your physician.

Make smart choices

Any sunscreen is better than wearing no sunscreen at all. Long-term sun exposure makes your skin age faster and creates a risk of painful sunburn. Any sun damage at all can lead to serious skin problems later in life.

When it comes to choosing a cosmetic product or sunscreen, it is always advisable to err on the side of caution. A mineral sunscreen is associated with fewer safety concerns and in higher concentrations, provides effective sun protection. If you're interested in browsing options, have a look at our range right away.

Source

https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/books/NBK587270/